13BTT-REW FD3S Rebuild -- Assembly

• Overview
• The Core
• Disassembly
• Cleaning
• Evaluation
• Assembly
• Mounting
• Intake/Turbo
• Cooling
• Accessories

07/19/2010:
I finally ordered the rebuild kit - a fair chunk of change that I had to save up for, so I was pleased when it arrived. There are a few sources for this, and I chose to get mine from Pineapple Racing. I've followed these guys ever since they posted their rebuild guides on Google Video, and I'm very impressed with their service. I was missing an item from a recent order, and Rob not only immediately sent a replacement, no questions asked, he also took a half hour to answer my how-to questions. I'll definitely be ordering from them again.

I was really looking forward to building the core - there's something satisfying about having that "together". But now that I finally have my rebuild kit I'm finding myself sidetracked! My rotary is going into an airplane, and I'm planning the locations of critical components like radiators and oil coolers (see below). In the process I'm also upgrading to AN- lines and fittings. I temporarily installed the engine core on the mount to see how everything would fit together. That is MUCH easier to do while it's in pieces, and you don't need a hoist to move it around! Also, if I have to drill/tap anything, I'd prefer to do it before I reassemble the engine, so I can clean the chips out completely.

So the only thing I got "done" today was installing the oil metering port (OMP) plugs in the housings. I know this can be done with a bolt, but in the interest of saving a tiny bit of weight and creating a more professional-looking install, I ordered Pineapple Racing's OMP plugs. Per their suggestion, I left the small O-rings in the bottom of each port to help seal them. Not per their suggestion, I installed them with Locktite Red. This is actually a very low-pressure area and there's little chance they'll come out, but this was a permanent decision... To clean up the appearance of the plugs I may even fill the hex key hole with JB Weld and paint over them. We'll see.

Next, I installed the engine loosely on the engine mount on the plane. I had a very hard time lining everything up... until I realized the mounting plate had been shipped to me BACKWARDS. Once that was turned around everything worked out fine, and I was able to start planning my cowl layout.

Here's a list of the fittings I believe I will need. First, the oil cooling path:

1. 18-1.5mm to AN-10 adapter. This will convert the oil outlet in the front cover into an AN fitting to head to the oil cooler.
2. AN-10 braided stainless steel hoses. These will connect from the front cover to the oil cooler, from the oil cooler to the oil filter, then from the oil filter to the oil inlet at the upper rear of the engine.
3. Oil filter mount. The best of these units that I can find have two inlet and outlet ports, which is an ideal location for mounting the oil temperature and pressure sensors. They're all tapped for AN-12 fittings, so I'll need adapters for my oil lines. I decided against running larger oil lines - it's completely unnecessary and just adds extra weight.
4. Oil bypass block. This allows oil to return to the engine from the oil filter.
5. 14-1.5mm to AN-4 right-angle adapter. This will convert the oil outlet in the top of the front housing into an AN fitting to feed the turbo.
6. CONFIRM: AN-12 fittings and drain line from turbo. Supposedly the stock hard oil return fitting fits into an AN-12 line, and can be clamped around it.

Now, water cooling: