13BTT-REW FD3S Rebuild -- Cleaning

• Overview
• The Core
• Disassembly
• Cleaning
• Evaluation
• Assembly
• Mounting
• Intake/Turbo
• Cooling
• Accessories

Cleaning the engine requires a variety of tools and solvents. You've got dirty oil and coolant sloshing all around, carbon buildup on the rotors and ports, rust on various parts, and dirt and grime all over the place.

I used a mix of products to clean up the filth. First, I used Simple Green to deal with the worst of the oil sludge. Then I moved to an engine degreaser, which I also used as a wash for the next product, a heavy-duty carb cleaner that did a good job on the really baked-in stuff. To scrub I used Scotch Brite pads and brass-bristled brushes. They did the job fine. Wherever there were flat surfaces, I also used a razor scraper to clean off old gasket material and heavy carbon buildup. Finally, for bolts and such, I used a parts dip.

I've heard that ultrasonic cleaners are the best way to go here. They're expensive if you're just rebuilding one engine, but I may do this more than once. I'm also concerned about the environmental impact of the solvents and cleaners I used here. Some of them are pretty nasty. The ultrasonic cleaners can do the same job with more environmentally-friendly products. Sounds like a good idea to me. Another option might be to call around to find a shop that already has one. The housings are pretty large, and if you want to clean parts that big you need a BIG cleaning tank.

That took care of the worst of the housing grime. The rotors were a different matter. I had one rotor whose side seals were completely stuck in their grooves. The usual trick is to use a broken piece of side seal to get the others out. Ha - that assumes you can get any leverage with it, and it's a VERY fragile tool. Think about it. If you break a side seal while removing it because it's so stuck, that means the "stuck" is stronger than the seal. That makes the broken piece a very bad pry bar!

After several days of trying, cleaning, soaking, prying, and cursing, I finally hit on a technique that worked. I soaked the rotor in parts dip for 2 days to help clean it. Then I hit it with some Liquid Wrench along the seal line, and let that soak for 20 minutes. I found a small paint scraper that fit the side seal groove, and used that and a hammer to whack the side of each side seal, hoping to break some of the carbon bonds in there. Finally, I used a small screwdriver with the tip ground down to fit the slot to pry bits of it out. All told, I have at least 8 hours just cleaning one rotor. Next time I'm using an ultrasonic cleaner! (The other rotor was fine.)

When I had the housings not so much clean as relatively tolerable, I took a break and bolted them all back together for a bit. I mounted that on my engine mount and used it to spot-check the final position for the engine mount. I need a day of rest between cleanings - the chemicals are getting to me.

By the way, Pineapple Racing has a video posted on Google Video that talks about cleaning. One of the products Rob uses is a wire wheel on the bench grinder. I didn't get one until later in the cleaning process, and I wish I had done that sooner. It basically turns rotor-cleaning into a 5-minute process, for the faces anyway. Highly recommended.