"Ingredients"
For each of these parts I've listed a primary vendor and that vendor's part number for the item. However, many parts are available from multiple sources, including eBay. I'd encourage you to shop around to find the best prices and shipping rates. Many of these parts are expensive, and careful research could yield a 10%-20% cost savings for the whole project.
In addition to that, if you're on a tight budget you should read each section carefully before buying any parts. In each case I've listed what I believe is the “right” or “best” solution, but it's not always the cheapest. Wherever possible I've also described alternatives that are easier on the budget.
Harbor Freight
Acceptable tools at acceptable prices. Most don't come close to even an entry-level Craftsman, but where else are you going to find a set of 20 screwdrivers for $6.99? Many of the tools you use in rebuilding a rotary are used only infrequently. Face it: you're only building one engine. A cheap socket set is fine.
| Item | Part # | Comments |
|---|---|---|
| Engine Stand | 32916 | You also need an adapter plate (see Pineapple Racing, below).1) |
| Engine Hoist | 98340 | Same story - you don't need this, you want this. |
| Air Compressor | 90234 | Get one with a fairly sizeable tank, if you plan to use it for other tasks like porting, painting, etc. |
| Die Grinder | 95029 | For porting, working on the intake, etc. |
| Diamond Bits | 31502 | For smoothing / polishing tasks. |
| Impact Wrench | 2623 | I found a nice Husky Pro 650 on sale, but this is fine too. You need this to remove the flywheel nut. You want this for the rest of the disassembly. |
| Impact Sockets | 34683 | Standard sockets won't last very long when used with an impact wrench. |
| Wire Brushes | 93610 | Get one or two sets. OK, get three. Five. Definitely get five. You'll go through them like epoxy mixing sticks when you start cleaning carbon and gunk off your rotors and housings. |
| Wire Wheel | 46764 | For cleaning rotor faces. Once you do it this way, you'll never do it by hand again. |
| Digital Caliper | 47257 | I tested Harbor Freight's caliper against a friend's Starrett and it was just as accurate, if not as sexy. |
| Dial Indicator | 5645 and 623 | I used this as demonstrated in Pineapple Racing's videos to measure side housing wear and to check end play. |
| Metric taps | 39384 | While not strictly REQUIRED, it is a very good idea to “clean up” the threads on old fasteners before re-using them. A tap/die is the fastest way to do that. A cheap set is fine - you won't actually be TAPPING much. |
| Bolt Puller Set | 37824 | For removing the flywheel. |
| Slide Hammer | 5469 | May be helpful for freeing stuck parts, like dowels. I found this particularly helpful at removing landing gear studs. |
| Blind Hole Bearing Puller | 95987 | Removes the pilot bearing. The slide hammer is NOT good at doing this. |
| Feeler Gauges | 32214 | I had a good set of standard feelers, but I also got Pineapple's special set of 3 long feelers just for the rotary. Handy. |
| Dead blow hammer | 41796 | See comments about the puller, above. Sometimes a part will just need a little “encouragement” to pop off. |
| Needle Files | 4614 | Perfect for cleaning inside apex seal grooves and other limited-access areas. |
eBay
Before you buy anything, you should check for a better price here. (Make sure you check the price plus shipping!) You can find the oddest things here, although sometimes you have to wait for the right deals. Counterweights and other parts, tools, supplies, etc. If you're lucky, you can also sell a few parts from your teardown to help reduce the final installation cost.
| Item | Description | Usage |
|---|---|---|
| 54mm (2-1/8”) impact socket | For the flywheel nut. I found one at a local tool store, but there are several on eBay at the time of this writing. Avoid the skinny stamped-steel “locknut” sockets at Sears - these will NOT work. The flywheel nut requires >450 ft. lbs. of torque to remove. |  |
| Cutting Bits | If you plan to do any porting work, get a decent set of carbide rotary burrs (straight, taper, and ball). | |
| 46mm wastegate | RECOMMENDED: Tial “Sport” 46mm wastegate with a “Large Yellow” spring (0.6 BAR / 8.702 PSI).2) |  |
| Stainless Wire Ties | Stainless steel wire ties, in various lengths. Everybody sells these, but you can frequently get the best prices on eBay. | |
| Radiator | Look at the cooling section for pictures of this unit. I installed a 16”x31” dual-pass radiator, which JUST BARELY fits under the engine mount. You may want to try to find one that is narrower - I couldn't. Fortunately, the rails add over an inch to the width, and those can be trimmed to squeeze it into position. |  |
| Intercooler | I installed a 27.5” x 5.5” x 2.5” intercooler, which also JUST BARELY fits. I had to make a custom cowl to get all this to work (but I would have anyway). You could go with a narrower, taller unit if you don't mind plumbing a duct from your plenum. | |
| Injector Service Kit | Should include four large O-rings, four small O-rings, two large pintle caps, and two small pintle caps. | |
| Injector Connectors | You can almost always find connectors here, pigtails installed, for a fraction of what you'd spend on the OEM part. |
McMaster-Carr
An excellent source for hardware, including bolts, nuts, fittings, and raw stock like aluminum and steel sheet and tubing. Not always the best price, if you shop around, but has VERY fast shipping and they have a lot of things that are hard to find elsewhere.
| Qty | Item | Part # | Description | Usage |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 8 | M8-1.25 x 30mm cap screw | 98093A548 | Intake manifold bolts, if yours aren't re-usable. | |
| 10 | M8-1.25 x 20mm cap screw | 9809A538 | Other misc. bolts as required. | |
| 4 | 1/4”-20 x 7/8” U-bolt | 3176T49 | Vibration-damping U-bolt | |
| 1 | 6063 U-channel, 3” x 1” x 5' | 9001K41 | Mounting brackets for radiator | |
| 4 | 3/8”-16 x 4” Cap Screw | 92620A639 | Mounting bolts for radiator | |
| 4 | 3/8”-16 Nut | 94191A300 | Nuts for radiator mounting bolts | |
| 4 | 3/8”-16 Locknut | 94820A242 | Lock nuts for radiator mounting bolts | |
| 4 | 3/8” Washer | 95229A480 | Washers for radiator mounting bolts | |
| 1 | .384” ID 0.058” Alum. Tube | 89965K355 | Spacers for radiator bolts | |
| 1 | 6-32 x 1.5” Machine Screw | 91249A164 | 18-8 Stainless Steel, Black Oxide Finish |  |
| 1 | 6-32 Hex Nut | 96537A130 | 18-8 Stainless Steel, Black Oxide Finish | |
| 1 | #6 Flat Washer | 97416A111 | Black Oxide Finish | |
| 1 | 1/4”-28 All-Thread, 3' lg | 99086A114 | For mounting coil packs | |
| 4 | 1/4”-28 Locknut | 95307A500 | Locknuts for coil pack mounting brackets | |
| 1 | 1/4” ID alum. tubing, 36” | 9056K642 | See ECU instructions | |
| 1 | 1/8” x 2” x 36” alum. bar | 6023K273 | See ECU instructions | |
| 20 | 1/8” ID silicone tubing | 5236K832 | Length depends on EC3 mounting location | |
| 2 | 1/8” tubing adapter | 5346K61 | Manifold pressure to EC3 | |
| 2 | 1/8” tubing coupler | 91355K88 | Bulkhead coupler | |
| 8 | 1/4” hose clamp | 5076K31 | Smooth inner walls | |
McMaster also sells the appropriate taps and plugs for NPT fittings if you can't find them on eBay or Harbor Freight. You'll probably want a full set: 1/8”, 1/4”, 3/8”, and 1/2”.
Burns Stainless
Mandrel bends and tubing supplier.
| Qty | Item | Part # | Description | Usage |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2 | 1.25” dia alum. bend | LB-125-20-16-6061 | 1.38” OD x 0.065” wall 6061 tube, 90-degree bend | |
| 2 | 1.63” dia alum. bend | LB-163-25-17-6061 | 1.63” OD x 0.065” wall 6061 tube, 90-degree bend | |
| 4 | 1.25” dia alum. tube | ST-125-16-6061 | 1.38” OD x 0.065” wall 6061 tube, 4' or 2x 2' | |
| 4 | 1.63” dia alum. tube | ST-163-17-6061 | 1.63” OD x 0.065” wall 6061 tube, 4' or 2x 2' | |
| 2 | 5” dia alum. tube | ST-500-16-6061 | 2', for intake plenum | |
Another vendor to consider is Metals Depot. They have the 5” tubing in a larger thickness for a quarter of the price listed here (part number T3R5125).
Waytek Wire
Waytek has good prices on specialty fuses and holders, breakers, and quick-disconnect connectors.
| Qty | Item | Part # | Description | Usage |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 5 | 9-pos Mate-n-Lok Plug | 38109 | Quick-disconnects for engine wiring | |
| 5 | 9-pos Mate-n-Lok Jack | 38159 | Quick-disconnects for engine wiring | |
| 50 | Mate-n-Lok Pin, M | 31071 | |
|
| 50 | Mate-n-Lok Pin, F | 31072 | |
|
| 1 | Mate-n-Lok Crimper | 428 | Or check eBay for deals | |
| 1 | Mate-n-Lok Removal Tool | 534 | See footnotes.3) | |
Local Suppliers: Sears, Home Depot, Lowes, Ace, AutoZone, Pep Boys, etc.
| Item | Description |
|---|---|
| Plastic pool | When you crack your core you're going to dump coolant and oil all over the place. A hard (not inflatable) plastic wading pool is the perfect size to hold your engine while you disassemble it. You won't lose any fasteners on your shop floor, you can clean things as you remove them, and then you can drain the whole mess for disposal. And they're cheap! |
| Cleaners | Use whatever works for you, but you'll need a fair bit of it. I used some random foaming carb cleaner and brass brushes to get the worst of the oil and dirt off exterior surfaces. I used B12 ChemTool (Xylene - don't inhale) when I needed something stronger, and acetone for final cleanup. I'm fortunate enough to have an industrial ultrasonic cleaner, which worked wonders on final cleaning and degreasing. |
| Loctite | Blue (Never gonna give you up…), anti-seize compound (never gonna let you down…), and red (never gonna run around or desert you…). |
| Permatex | Ultra Black (oil seals) and Ultra Grey (everything else - oil pan, front cover, etc.) |
| Teflon sealant | I prefer the brush-on compound, not the tape wrap. |
| Spray paint | High-temp engine paint, if you want to paint your housings. If you do, get painter's tape, too. |
| Lubricants | Who doesn't have a can of WD-40? Well, how are you fixed for vaseline? Vaseline or Crisco will be used during the build, and you'll want some clean engine oil to lubricate and preserve parts. I actually rarely (maybe never?) used WD-40. Any silicone in your rotor housings will prevent the apex seals from getting a good seat right away. |
| 3x 5/16” or 8mm lock washers | Used as shims to disable the eccentric shaft oil bypass valve. |
AGP Turbo
| Item | Part Number | Description | Usage |
|---|---|---|---|
| Turbo | T04E-50 | Turbonetics T04E-50 turbo | |
I bought a Turbonetics T04E-50 with the following specifications:
- “Wet” housing
- Super 50 (2.122/3.200) compressor trim
- F1 65 turbine wheel. (This used to be called “P trim”.)
- 0.96 Tang Open A/R
- Ceramic ball bearings
Every one of these specifications is open to argument (except possibly the wet housing). I made my order to match John Slade's setup as closely as possible. Choose your guru, and decide which path is best for you.
These guys have a bit of lead time, by the way. I believe my order took 3-4 weeks to fulfill, including overseas shipping. Keep that in mind if you're getting close to the time when you need to order it.
SSAutoChrome
| Item | Part Number | Description | Usage |
|---|---|---|---|
| Turbo Manifold | FC3S 86-92 2ND GEN TURBO MANIFOLD | Note: 2nd-gen. version, see comment below. | |
This company produces two products of interest, one for the 2nd-gen and one for the 3rd-gen. I went with the 2nd-gen. because it's more compact (and cheaper, too).
This is supposedly the same product John Slade used, but they've apparently changed it a bit. The wastegate extension tube is much longer and interferes with the CozyGirrrls' engine mount. You'll need to have a welder make a 90-degree elbow using the wastegate flange (which it should come with) and matching manifold flange (which it also comes with).
Summit Racing
Oil system:
| Qty | Item | Part Number | Description | Usage |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Oil Filter Bracket | TRD-1045 | Remote mount oil filter bracket. Extra ports used for oil pressure and temperature senders. 4) |  |
| 2 | AN-10 to 1/2” NPT fittings | FRA-582210 | Convert oil filter bracket ports to AN-10 fittings. | |
| 2 | 1/2” NPT male to 1/8” NPT female fittings | EAR-991206ERL | Convert Dynon Avionics oil pressure and temperature senders to install in oil filter bracket. If you use different sensors you may need different adapters. | |
| 1 | M18-1.5 to AN-10 fitting | AER-FBM2245 | Converts the front-cover oil feed from a metric Banjo bolt to an AN-style fitting. Use the standard Mazda copper crush washer with this part. | |
| 2 | Oil cooler | EAR-41010ERL | These 3” x 13” x 2” units have AN-10 fittings. I fit two in a row along the port side of my NACA scoop. You may want to mock them up in your own engine compartment - a wide range of sizes are available. | |
| 1 | AN-10 braided hose | SUM-230010 | 10 feet is probably more hose than you need - if you want to save a few bucks, test-mount your radiators and use a string to measure it out. | |
| 5 | AN-10 90-degree hose end | SUM-220087 | 1x: oil filter to cooler 1, 2x: cooler 1 to cooler 2, 1x: cooler 2 to | |
| 2 | AN-10 45-degree hose end | SUM-220086 | Oil outlet from engine to oil filter | |
| 2 | -10 AN Tube Nuts | SUM-220033 | Between oil coolers | |
| 2 | -10 AN Tube Sleeves | SUM-220034 | Between oil coolers | |
| 2 | -10 AN Tubes | VTA-12412-VBH | We don't need much, so this is a cheap option | |
| 2 | 1/4” NPT to AN-8, straight | AER-FBM2006 | Finger strainer outlet |  |
| 2 | AN-8 to AN-8, 90-degree | 935108ERL | Finger strainer to shutoff | |
| 2 | 3/8” NPT to AN-8, straight | SUM-220648 | Shutoff valve inlet | |
| 2 | 3/8” NPT to AN-8 shutoff valve | 230503ERL | Low force, aluminum | |
| 4 | -8 AN Tube Nuts | SUM-220833 | Valve to pump | |
| 4 | -8 AN Tube Sleeves | SUM-220834 | Valve to pump | |
| 1 | -8 AN Aluminum Tubing | EAR-100037ERL | Valve to pump | |
| 2 | AN-8 to 10mm-1.0 Fitting | 17978NOS | Fuel pump inlet | |
| 1 | -8 AN Aluminum Tubing | EAR-100034ERL | Pump to bulkhead, et. al. | |
| 8 | -6 AN Tube Nuts | SUM-220633 | Pump to bulkhead, et. al. | |
| 8 | -6 AN Tube Sleeves | SUM-220634 | Pump to bulkhead, et. al. | |
| 1 | AN-6 hose | SUM-230615 | This is 15 ft. You'll need 10-20 - use your judgment. | |
| 2 | 1/4” NPT to AN-6, 90-degree | SUM-220651 | Fuel return to tank | |
| 16 | AN-6 hose end, straight | SUM-220690 | Various locations | |
| 2 | 3/8” NPT 90-degree Fitting | Sump to fuel shutoff valve | |
|
| 2 | Fuel Shutoff Valve | 230503ERL | AN-8 to 3/8” NPT | |
| 2 | Fuel Pump | VPN-GSL393 | Walbro 155lph fuel pump | |
| 2 | Installation Kit | VPN-400920 | Walbro pump installation kit | |
| 2 | Wiring Kit | VPN-400929 | Walbro pump wiring kit | |
| 2 | AN-6 to 10mm-1.0 Fitting | 491961-BL | Fuel pump outlet | |
| 1 | AN-6 Hose | SUM-230615 | 15-ft5) braided stainless hose | |
| 14 | AN-6 hose end | AER-FBM1012 | Various connections.6). | |
| 1 | Canister Fuel Filter | MAA-3160 | Dual inlet, dual outlet canister-style fuel filter (5 micron) | |
| 6 | 3/8” NPT to AN-6 fittings | SUM-220648 | 3x fuel filter and 3x fuel rails | |
| 1 | 3/8” NPT Plug | SUM-G1487B-1 | Plug for the extra outlet hole in the canister filter | |
| 1 | Fuel Pressure Regulator | AEI-13109 | An adjustable unit with AN-style fittings and a vacuum reference to make tuning easier. | |
| 1 | AN-6 to M12-1.25 Fitting | EAR-991945ERL | Threaded end of secondary rail | |
| 3 | AN-6 Port Fitting | SUM-220166 | Fuel regulator port fittings. O-rings required! | |
| 1 | AN-6 M-F-M Tee Fitting | AER-FBM2282 | Fuel hose to primary rail to secondary rail | |
| 4 | AN-6 90-degree Hose Ends | SUM-220687 | 1x: fuel filter to primary rail, 1x: primary rail to secondary rail, 2x: fuel rails to regulator | |
| 2 | Teflon line sealer | ARP-100-9904 | Two tubes is plenty enough if you use the right amount on each fitting | |
| 1 | Braided Hose Cutter | SUM-900040 | For cutting braided stainless hose lines.7) | |
| 1 | Tubing Bender Set | MAL-TB102K | You need 3/8, 1/2, and 5/8 at a minimum | |
| 1 | 37-degree Flare Tool | SUM-900311 | Various tube sizes required | |
| 1 | Radiator Cap | AAF-ALL30131 | 21-25psi lever-style radiator cap | |
| 1 | Expansion Tank | CTR-80-200 | 1.5qt, 3/8NPT inlet | |
Aircraft Spruce
Wow, we're actually buying aviation parts? Well, sort of.
| Qty | Item | Part Number | Description | Usage |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2 | Finger Strainer | 05-17700 | A larger version is also available, but the standard size worked fine for me. | |
| 2 | 3/8” NPT Threaded Flange | AN867-3 | Mounting flange for finger strainers | |
| 2 | 1/4” NPT Threaded Flange | AN867-2 | Mounting flange for fuel return lines | |
| 2 | Push-Pull | 05-14172 | Cable for fuel shutoff valve | |
Rotary Aviation
| Qty | Item | Part Number | Description | Usage |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | PSRU | RD-1B | 2.17:1 propeller redrive unit | |
| 1 | ECU | EC3 | Engine controller, configured for a turbo engine with LS1 coils | |
JC Whitney
| Item | Part Number | Description | Usage |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fuel Selector Solenoid | 42-308 | Pollak fuel tank selector solenoid | |
This fuel tank selector is a fairly special unit. You can find similar items on eBay and at other sources, but be careful what you get. First, it's rated to 65psi. This guide only calls for it to be used on the return line, which should never see that much pressure - but accidents can happen, and a clogged return line or similar would be a huge problem for the 8psi lookalike units used for diesel tank selection in boats.
Second, this particular unit is designed to consume current only while it is being switched. Once switched, the valve stays put with no additional draw. If your alternator dies, it's one less device to support. I've seen other valves that ran as much as 1A when energized.
Pineapple Racing
| Item | Part Number | Description | Usage |
|---|---|---|---|
| OMP Cover | OMPBO-S56 | You could make this. Or you could use that half-hour to do something more interesting. | |
| OMP Injection Plugs | RHOMPLUGS8) | Used to block the oil metering port holes in the rotor housings. | |
| Rebuild Kit | REW-RBK1 | Wait to buy this until you've dismantled and inspected your engine, because you might need to add bearings or other components to this kit. I bought the heavy duty water seals.9) | |
| 4x Copper-clad exhaust nut | CTLEN | Another item you don't NEED. Your turbo manifold will come with nuts. But these are easier to get back off for servicing, and they're cheap. | |
| Cooling system pressure tester | CSPT | You could reassemble the block, install it, and hope you don't have a leak… or get this cheap, reusable tool will tell you right away. | |
| Rotary Stand Adapter | RESA | Allows the cheap Harbor Freight engine stand to hold the rotary engine. | |
| Front cover regulator shims | PRSSHIMS | If you're going to modify your rear oil pressure regulator to increase your system pressure, these shims (install three) will adjust the front cover regulator to match. | |
| Syringe | SYRNG | I got mine locally, but if you can't find one, this is a decent source. | |
| Porting Templates | Varies | If you want to do any porting, Pineapple carries templates for it. So do a lot of other people, but you may as well save on shipping. | |
| Lower Intake Manifold (LIM) Gasket | N3A1-13-111C | Won't come with the rebuild kit, buy separately. |  |
| Idler Pulley Kit | FDidler | Replaces the air pump pulley when you remove that component. Some builders have gotten away without this, but it causes increased side wear on the bearings. Worth saving the money? Your choice. | |
Mazdatrix
Many of these parts are also available at Atkins Rotary. You can also frequently find them on eBay, but be careful to identify precisely which parts you're buying. Not all “front counterweights” are the same!
| Item | Qty | Part Number | Description | Usage |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Auto Flex Plate | 1 | 19-020B-BU17 | For mounting the Rotary Aviation PSRU | |
| Auto Front Counterweight | 1 | N3A8-11-D610 | Frequently available on eBay as well | |
| Auto Rear Counterweight | 1 | N351-11-5210 | Frequently available on eBay as well | |
| Oil Block Bypass | 1 | 11822 | Allows the oil cooler to be mounted remotely. | |
| Dipstick | 1 | 10-450B-N3A1 | Mine was missing | |
| Oil Pressure Plug | 1 | 31-000F-9950 | Plugs the oil pressure switch fitting under the oil filter mounting block. 10) | |
| E-shaft Oil Jet | 1 | 11-4110-8553 | 0.200” Weber carburetor main jet, increases oil flow through eccentric shaft. | |
| Oil Pressure Valve | 1 | 11810 | 80-85psi version | |
| Sealing Washer | 1 | 41-6000-9956 | Front-cover oil fitting sealing washer | |
| Tension Bolt Washer | 18 | 10-4550-0839 | One for each tension bolt | |
| Primary injector grommets | 2 | 13-2570-N3A1 | Fit around each injector housing in the primary rail | |
| Secondary injector grommets | 2 | 13-257A-NF01 | Fit between each injector outlet and the diffuser in the secondary rail | |
Regarding the oil bypass block, this would be a pretty easy part to make yourself if you want to save $65. See Cooling for a more detailed description of the part.
Fuel Return Solenoid: Complicated?
The fuel return solenoid is complicated. John Slade used the following parts in his: VICK SV4 10 3 0 00 VICK 30545 VICK 20197AA8
I had difficulty sourcing some of these - a few hydraulic shops could get them, but only with long lead times.
Next I considered a Pollak 3-port or 6-port valve. These are actually very well made units, and use power only while switching. Unfortunately they're also fairly large, and have push-on hose connectors. I really wanted something with AN or NPT fittings. The solution is to just box it in. You can get inexpensive aluminum boxes from Digikey, and run a drain line from it out of the cowl. That way if a fitting cracks, any leaks are directed away from the exhaust/turbo area.
In the end I went with a HydraPower solenoid. VegPower and Charlotte Energy Solutions both sell a version of this valve with Viton O-rings, an aluminum body, stainless internals, and 3/8” NPT ports. I think this is a good product, but I wanted to mention the other options here in case either vendor stopped carrying this product.
Buying The Core
When you buy the core, there are a few things to keep in mind. What you're looking for is a used engine that was “pulled” from a car in Japan and imported to the US. It's a complete unknown, so ask questions - the vendor should at least know the country of origin and mileage. Mine had 45,000mi on it, which is a nice target. Ask about how many miles the engine had on it (they should know) and look for grunge.
Beware of low-mileage engines. Look, the engine you're buying? There's something wrong with it. Don't expect to get it home, hook it up to a battery and fuel line, and start it. It probably is full of crud, has lost compression, etc. It's probably been sitting for months, even years. But if it's also a YOUNG engine, there's probably something a lot “wronger” with it - maybe it was severely overheated or had some other significant damage.
Grunge is GOOD. It's hard to fake grunge. If you see grey ash where you should see grunge, don't buy the engine! Beware a pressure-washed engine. If they offer to do it for you before you buy, great. But if it's already spotless - what did they wash off that you want to know about?
Be prepared to identify the engine, because some importers improperly label them (or just don't know the difference). The engine will come with accessories wrapped around it like fur on a Samoyed. Be prepared to identify the engine by its accessories. In particular, you can examine the intake and the exhaust components to figure out what's going on inside.
Notice the highlighted areas. If you examine the exhaust side of the engine (on the right-hand side if you stand where the transmission goes) you can see an aluminum “Y” pipe. Below and forward of that you can also see TWO bulbous solenoids that look a bit like old-school toilet bowl floats. This tells you you're dealing with the sequential twin turbo that is a signature characteristic of the 3rd-gen engine.
The one on the right is from a Miata. Don't buy that one. 
Be on the lookout for the Cosmo engine. I have nothing in particular against this engine - it produces almost as much power as the one we want, and some builders have had good luck with it. But you'll have to do some innovation and possibly buy some different parts. You can tell the difference most easily by studying the intake. The engine we WANT has four clearly identifiable runners, but they're joined like the webbing on a duck's foot. The Cosmo has “13B-RE” embossed on it, and its runners are clearly separated.
Also, it is NOT uncommon to get an engine with a range of parts. Maybe the alternator was replaced at some point. And if it came from Japan, you might have weird things on top of that. My engine came with Cosmo irons. Everything else is stock 13B 3rd-gen, but my housings and irons have all the ports to be a Cosmo. Deal with it.
