Disposable everything
Cleanup is a pain, especially if you're sensitive to the stronger chemicals such as Methyl-Ethyl-Ketone. (aka MEK or Methyl-Eat-My-Carpet, this will even eat through plastic tool handles if you leave them in there long enough. Don't splash, don't get it on you. It's toxic. Don't breathe too much. It's also a carcinogen.) Cider vinegar never worked well for me, so I shifted tacks. I now use butyl rubber gloves to protect my hands, and to avoid having to clean them up I put latex gloves over those. These can be reused several times if I'm careful to not splash epoxy all over the place. I also:

Mix micro in the small cup (it usually doesn't take much). I use the mixing stick I used to mix the micro to spread it on the foam, and then I throw it out.
Mix epoxy in the large cups. Since they are wide and flat exotherms are less likely. I can mix up to 180g in a cup, although stopping at 160g (this is resin plus hardener, MGS-335) leaves more space for better stirring without spilling. I save the mixing sticks from this step to mix micro and flox.
Pour the epoxy into the center areas of my layup if I need to work quickly, or spread it with the brush. Either way, I stipple ONLY with the brush. I do not use a squeegee in this step. The brush is a disposable chip brush from Harbor Freight. As I'm writing this, the goind rate is $9 for a 36-pack of 1" brushes, $13 for a 36-pack of 2" brushes, and $6 for a 12-pack of 3" brushes. I use the 2" brushes the most. Cutting the bristles a bit shorter with a pair of scissors makes the brush stiffer and better for stippling.
Cover my layups with plastic and use the straight wooden sticks I have set aside for this purpose (jointed for a true edge) as squeegees to squeeze out excess epoxy and air bubbles. This works AMAZINGLY well and is MUCH more pleasant than squeegeeing right on the fabric. You never shift the fibers, and you don't get epoxy on your squeegee. The plastic is reusable, just be careful to clean off any small droplets of epoxy or dust/dirt that could adhere to the next layup.
Disposable razor blades for knife trim (but see below).

Cutting Foam
I've tried a lot of techniques and they all have their advantages. I mark the foam with a fine-point lead pencil (0.5mm), then cut to the outside of the line with a coping saw, cleaning up the edge with sandpaper. Also, you can't see it in this picture but I've made an edge-jointer out of a long, straight board and four sheets end-to-end of 36-grit sandpaper. This puts a perfectly true edge on any foam. Another trick is the Dozuki saw in the top of the picture, which makes very straight lines. However, my favorite trick, with a better picture in the Chapter 4 details page, is to tap a wide razor blade into the cut line with a hammer. This is my preferred method for straight lines because I have arthritis, and it's easiest on my wrists. You can also make multiple passes with the blade to gradually cut through, but as you get deeper, especially in thick foams, this gets hard on the wrists/fingers.

Cutting Fabric
I've tried scissors and I've tried electric shears and both work well, the shears doing a faster job, obviously. However, you have to lift the fabric to do this and especially with BID, this distorts the fibers. A MUCH faster and better way is to use a rotary cutter and a self-healing rubber cutting mat, as shown on the BID piece in the picture below. The left edge was just cut with the rotary cutter. The other three were cut with scissors. Do get the mat, though. If you do this on a wood or hardboard surface it will get marred and the ruts will catch fibers as you pull it out onto the table. That's worse than using scissors.